Trouble in Truffle Land
Can truffle gatherers in Périgord continue their traditional way of life?


Patrick Bruel Goes Retro...
A fun musical flashback to
the 1930s


A Dog's Life...
In a search for cleaner sidewalks an expat looks at pampered Parisian pooches


Disappearing Concierges...
Is the typical Parisian concierge becoming an endganered species?


Paris Street Music...
The sounds of the Paris street are the sounds of the world


France's Legion of Honor...
A
look at France's Legion of Honor from a personal perspective


In a Green Haze of Absinthe
Absinthe inspired a generation of artists before it was banned in 1915. Will it make a comeback?


A Search for the Ideal Cafe
A ramble through Paris via the corner cafes


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News: On the streets defending retirement... Getting tough on terrorists... and tough on traffic... McDonald's new PR twist... Political asylum policy reform... Keeping kids in school... Smoking in high-school...

Views Features: What makes French advertising so different... Women from the suburbs struggle for equality...

Views: The trouble with 35 hours... Communities forgotten in the rush to technology... The pace of life in Paris... It's getting harder to rent a Paris apartment... Is it absurd that an alcoholic sues Pastis... DNA helps solve some mysteries of French history... The important message of the recent series of strikes...


The Trouble with 35 Hours

A few years back, French workers proclaimed a major victory after they successfully managed to shorten the workweek to 35 hours.

So why doesn't it seem like a victory now?

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Originally the idea of the 35 hours was to create new jobs while protecting existing workers. However, once implemented, it has -- like so much legislation with good intention -- turned out to do neither.

Many companies have not hired additional workers, and instead push existing staff to do 40 hours worth of work in 35 hours.

And for those in industries with "peak" periods, its even worse, because overtime has been replaced by a scheme of with weeks where employees work more hours and other weeks when they work less -- essentially an involuntary "comp time" deal.

The laws regulating the 35 hour work week say that companies can require a total of 130 hours of "overtime" per year. According to these regulations, each hour worked over 35 in one week (37 in 2000 and 36 in 2001, the transitory period) must be replaced by "comp time," with the "margin" of 130 hours.

And even with these 130 hours of "wiggle room," some companies are looking for more "flexibility."

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Forgotten in the Rush to Technology

In Paris it may seem that the "information highway" of high speed internet access and mobile digital communication is accessible to everyone, but the picture changes a bit in some of the more rural areas of France.

Technology is less accessible in places in the center and south west of the country, In some communities, far from major highways or tourist attractions, people even find it impossible to receive calls on their mobile phones. Local residents wonder if there is a growing "digital divide" cutting them off from their connected compatriots. And they want to know why!

The affected communities typically have small populations and difficult mountainous or forest-covered terrain. They are victims of a free market that sees no profit in expensive extension of service to hard to reach areas.

Angry at being excluded from using technological innovation, some residents have created their own political lobby in the hope of pressuring the government to force these private "service providers" to actually provide them with service. One such organization, "Adimac" (Associaiton pour le developpement industriel du massif centrale), even met with president Chirac last November.

However, the private companies say local governments should agree to subsidize some of the costs of providing service in areas where its not economically feasible for a single firm to make such an investment. The local governments respond that its not fair that small communities should have to pay these expenses out of pocket, while large cities like Paris, Lyon and Marseilles have accessibility for free.

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The Pace of Paris...

by Isabelle Nikolic

A dozen years ago, life was good in Paris. Now, the city is becoming unbearable.

True, it's still beautiful -- and getting more beautiful each day -- but it has changed its rhythm. It has changed its soul.

Maybe it used to be more difficult to find a store open between 1 and 4 pm, but people knew that was when the shopkeepers took their break. And, anyway, the small Parisian restaurants were the gathering places for the city's working people. In fact, these neighborhood restaurants were almost like company cafeterias, with workers seated around the lunch table discussing the day's business.

Today, with so many companies leaving the city center for the outskirts where rents are more affordable, "fast food" or pizza delivered directly to the office that has taken the place of the friendly lunchtime restaurant meal.

Something has really changed in the spirit of the city as the nature of the workplace has changed. Somehow, the priority given to time, which should not be wasted under any circumstance, has pushed the quality of life into second place.

To rediscover the old ambience, one must leave Paris. And many people are choosing to do that these days -- they are looking for a better place to raise the kids, or a pace of life that is more humane.

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In the big city service must be available 24/7. But what will happen to all the people who don't know how to adapt to this faster paced life? There's an entire age group of people in question.

Of course the youth who are just entering the job market are better prepared for the rawness of this new society. They've never known the political consciousness of the older generation. They don't complain about working conditions, and are ready to accept anything. Too happy just to have a job, these are the kids who grew up hearing ad nauseum about unemployment.

Am I already at the age of speaking about "the good old days"? Is it nostalgia? Paris, "my Paris" where are you? No, I am only too conscious that this evolutionary process is like a river running without end, but we must also think about those who cannot swim and are drowning themselves.

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Renting a Paris Apartment Gets More Difficult

The rental real estate situation in Paris has been changing lately. A few years ago it was relatively easy to get a decent apartment for a fair price. Now, however, the apartment search is getting harder -- especially for anyone looking to rent a reasonably priced studio or one-bedroom.

Current tenants are protected by a law which says that rent hikes cannot be higher than the index of construction costs (which was +1,01% in 1999 according to Liberation), but those who are looking to move to Paris or change apartments are in for a difficult time. Would-be tenants are starting to look askance at rising rates for tiny spaces on the 4th and 5th floor of old walk-ups which may seem charming at first, but are often drafty and poorly heated in winter.

Landlords can set the rate for an empty apartment at whatever the market will bear, and increasingly that is getting higher -- beyond the means of many students, workers in low-paying jobs, and the unemployed.

Ironically, the rebounding economy is partially responsible for the problem, as more single young people are moving to Paris to begin new jobs while the pool of housing in the city has not expanded. According to a study published in September by the FNAIM (Fédération nationale de l'immobilier), rents have risen 5.8 % over the last year in Paris and 3.6 % nationally. The CSAB (Conseil supérieur de l'administration de biens), says that over the last three years rents have gone up almost 15%.

Increased competition for the available apartments has made landlords ever more choosy. The screening process prospective tenants must suffer through has become correspondingly more elaborate.

Knowledgeable observers say apartment hunters must show proof of monthly revenues four times the rent amount, or have a guarantor, with monthly revenues up to six times the rent amount, willing to sign the lease. Of course, the prospective tenant must still present three recent pay stubs, and sometimes a letter from their employer verifying their employment status, proof of tax payments, previous paid rent receipts or a utility bill from the last apartment.

In addition, some agencies are asking for a bank statement, Social Security card, and other identity papers, or the name and phone number of the previous landlord. Others are making inquiries into the prospective tenant's family status, habits and personal life.

There are no laws regulating the kinds of information or documents that may be demanded of a potential tenant, and real estate agents defend their screening processes as necessary to protect landlords from deadbeat tenants.

Meanwhile, many would-be tenants are expressing frustration with what they see as intrusive "background checks" by potential landlords and real estate agents.

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Suing Pastis...

It seems more French are following the American lead and are calling their lawyers instead of accepting responsibility for their own actions...

It was only a few years ago that friends in Paris would look on disapprovingly at the American civil court system, where people sued fast food chains for millions over spilt coffee and WON. More recently, the success of lawsuits against tobacco companies in the states has started them thinking.

According to the report in 23 August issue of Liberation, a resident of Thionville (Moselle) has decided to apply the American strategy to his favorite addiction -- Pastis. The 34 year-old alcoholic is suing Pernod Ricard, claiming the company never warned consumers about the dangers linked to use of their product. This is the first time that a French distiller has ever been sued.

The plaintiff alleges that Pastis has ruined his life -- his wife left him, he lost his job, his health has deteriorated, and he lost his driving license for DWI. Unlike his American counterparts, however, he is only demanding a judgement of 10,000 francs!

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DNA Throws Light on Some of French History's Mysteries

by Jo Dunn

Using methods of DNA analysis typically conducted in police investigations, historians have been able to shed new light on some of the murkier areas of French history.

In the sad case of the son of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, the scientists have provided proof positive that it was indeed the 10-year-old prince who died in a Paris prison following the revolution.

For many years, there had been debate about the fate of the prince after his parents were guillotined. It was known that he had been imprisoned. But what happened after remained a mystery.

The argument that he had died in prison was supported by the fact that someone had taken great risk to preserve his heart, obviously believing that it belonged to the prince. However, this version of events was not universally accepted. Many people preferred to believe that he had escaped, lived on, and even had heirs.

This summer, researchers compared the DNA of hair cut from Marie-Antoinette when she was a child with a sample from the long-preserved heart of the youth who had died in prison. Results of the test prove conclusively that the heart belonged to the son of Louis XVI, dashing the hopes of any pretenders claiming to be descended directly from the guillotined King Louis XVI.

In another French history puzzle, the actual cause of Napoleon's death has long been questioned. Was he murdered by poisoning over a long period of time, or did he die naturally from stomach cancer as was the official account?

After researchers performing DNA analysis found that clippings of Napoleons hair were tinged with poison, the conspiracy theorists have gained more supporters. A French cancer specialist argued that Napoleon's considerable weight gain while a prisoner at St. Helena would indicate that it was highly unlikely that he died of stomach cancer.

Experts at a conference sponsored by The International Napoleon Society this summer said the only way to solve the question was to exhume Napoleon's body from its resting place in Paris -- a step most people consider too drastic.

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The Message in Social Action

by P. Laurent

Almost 600,000 protestors on 25 January to defend their retirement rights, over 200,000 civil employees in the streets on the 30th, and to close out this exceptional week -- a large strike by the RATP that stopped the metro and RER in the region Parisienne.

Who says that social issues are not on top of the public's agenda in this country?

Of course it's hard to generalise. We should not give these social mobilisations more importance than they merit. After all, the protestors were trying to attain precise objectives of direct concern to themselves.

Still, there were some very positive signs in these demonstrations. First, the fact that so many private sector employees took part in the protests against the MEDEF's attempt to change the retirement rules is notable. Also, the strike of the civil employees, showed a remarkable level of unity and cooperation between the various unions. Finally, the RATP strikers were actually demanding an increase in hiring, because the shortage of manpower has made their working conditions intolerable.

So while it is true that these actions were about precise and disparate issues, it is also noteworthy that the whole range of social issues (social protection, salaries, and creation of jobs) was embraced by large and varied sectors of workers. And each action was supported by the majority of the public, as evidenced by public opinion surveys conducted by the Institut CSA.

We are not exaggerating to say that the people are sending a serious message to political leaders -- stop trying to destroy the system of social protection here in France. The recent demonstrations can be seen as an affirmation of public commitment to social priorities.

We believe that a better system of social supports is important in maintaining dynamism in the economy, and NOT a handicap to international competition, as some political leaders pretend.

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