Trouble in Truffle Land
Can truffle gatherers in Périgord continue their traditional way of life?


Patrick Bruel Goes Retro...
A fun musical flashback to
the 1930s


A Dog's Life...
In a search for cleaner sidewalks an expat looks at pampered Parisian pooches


Disappearing Concierges...
Is the typical Parisian concierge becoming an endganered species?


Paris Street Music...
The sounds of the Paris street are the sounds of the world


France's Legion of Honor...
A
look at France's Legion of Honor from a personal perspective


In a Green Haze of Absinthe
Absinthe inspired a generation of artists before it was banned in 1915. Will it make a comeback?


A Search for the Ideal Cafe
A ramble through Paris via the corner cafes


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Original writing: Follow the adventure in A Toast to Excitement, the latest installment of Joe Jones goes to Paris... See how this city can change your life in To Kiss Paris... A visit to literary Paris remembered... A memoir of a dreary Paris winter redefines the grey mood... A tale of Paris dreams in New York...

Classic books: The Little Prince is not just for kids... Down and out with Orwell... Hemingway's Parisian adventures...

Music: Some new sounds for the new year... More music selections from Paris...



Paris Dreaming from
the Corner of 59th Street

by Brian Benjamin, copyright © 2000

So there I was, in the foyer of the old New York City Playboy club on 59th street, just off Fifth Avenue -- jumpy, sweaty as hell in spite of the roiling low-level boom of the central air conditioning -- and most decidedly unsure if my fake ID card would pass muster. And just as I was about ready to freak, toss the whole deal and bolt, a platinum blonde goddess with electric green eyes, snatched my attention and held it fast by both lapels. Out of the clearest of clear blue skies, she winked at me.

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Whoa! Unprepared, inexperienced, I panicked. I trembled. I shook. I gasped. And I. . . I . . . I was . . .

. . . zapped into an ultra-chill French movie, sleek, sophisticated, futuristic -- instead of cars whizzing past there were cool hovercraft, guys tooling around in jet-packs, a monorail gliding gently through the distance . . . and it wouldn't be Fifth Avenue outside with a million guys slinging hot dogs at you on every corner -- no bloody way! It would be the grandeur of the Champs Elysees, the majestic Arc de Triomphe standing guard in the background. Agile, gleaming blue-tinged robots would be processing my paperwork. And we wouldn't be snarling and snapping and growling our way through densely congested, dangerous, rugged New York City, all sharp bright hard edges, the land of the howling four-letter epithet, we'd be all smooth and shiny and silky, bathing ourselves in rich, delicious sauces, red sauces red with the richness of spiraling passion, white sauces white with the richness of giddy expansive pleasure, and luscious creams -- fat, sweet éclairs and thick culinary delights, our eyes enthralled in the liquid heavens of the Louvre and the Seine and, and yes, we'd be in . . . in . . . Paris!!

I shook myself off, trying to snap out of it. I looked down, tried to clear my head.

I looked up, and took a good, long, look at this woman. She returned my gaze calmly and evenly, cool green eyes smiling, creamy skin radiant. She had a face shaped like a heart, with a delicate, pointed chin ­ a real turbo-charged, flat-out 900 kilometer per hour drop-dead beauty.

And then, suddenly . . . we were back in Paris.

I looked down at myself and I was no longer a gangly boy driving a mildly overworked Volkswagen Type 3 fastback with a pronounced limp at anything over 48 mph. I am . . . coool. My name is Francois, Maurice, Jean-Claude. Ah, you see, I normally smoke Gauloises -- but for this special occasion, and for this special occasion only, I renounce the cigarettes, have replaced them with 150 long-stem red roses in a gleaming box made of gold . . . Well, this is, after all, Paris, and we are in the city of love, you see . . .

It is early 21st century, and I have just driven my racecar, sponsored by Paris Match and le champagne Taittinger, straight up from my Riviera properties -- the hotel overlooking the Mediterranean, the villa a couple of short kilometers from the hotel, the --

"Sign here, willya!"

I panicked . . .

I was back in the city, in the Playboy club, trying to pass off my fake ID. There was a hulking fellow in an ill-fitting tuxedo the size of a small pickup truck in front of me. He pointed at the back of silver card. "Sign! C'mon!"

The hulk with shoulder pads for shoulders, and square fingers like Gigantar, the jet-age robot, slid my cards back to me, along with an aged, pitted, dented, creaky ball-point pen. I clicked it. Nothing happened. It jammed. I looked up.

"AAAhhh" Gigantar roared. He snatched the relic off the glass and flung it behind him. He yanked a Bic from underneath the counter. He slammed it down, pointed at the back of the card. "Whadaya! C'mon, here! Sign! You're killing me, here!"

Before he changed his mind and ignominiously decided to toss me out onto the curb, bogus papers and all, I signed the card.

Gigantar snatched his pen and pad away and slid me back a receipt with my card. I shrank quietly into the bubbling crowd as he stomped off into a back office.

The tension eased off me like sheets of cold water running back into the sea. I turned -- and there she was. I froze. She was more beautiful than Bardot, more statuesque than Marilyn. The breath rushed out of my lungs. I was silent, still as a heap of ancient rocks.

And her name -- I peered closer -- No way! Her name was Brigitte!

"Ah, oui?" She smiled at me again and it felt like she was both the light switch and the electric current. This could be very cool, I thought to myself. "And what are your impressions of Paris?"

"Impressions of Paris?"

"Oui!"

"Well" I stammered, drowning in a rushing undertow of incoherent thoughts, "well" I mumbled, "y-y-you are my ­ my impressions of Paris, miss."

"Moi, monsieur?"

"Yes. Yes, you are. My impression of Paris, I mean. All of them." I wiped my brow. I shifted from left foot to right and back. I tried to stay cool, look cool.

Once more she smiled, regarding me with those large, sparkling, impish eyes.

"Vous etes tres gentil, monsieur. Too kind by far! Come. Let me show you to a table." She reached out and touched my hand, and we were back in Paris at that very instant, at a gaudy, sprawling, boisterous, magnificent bistro just off the Rue Charles de Gaulle. But this time I got smart. This time I didn't fight my grand, fanciful and fantastical impression of Paris. I let my wild flight of imagination soar into the untrammeled heavens, carrying me straight to the stars along with it.

It's Bastille Day. The Tri-Color is everywhere! The streets are choked with Renaults, Citroens, even ancient Deux-Chevaux. Cafes and bistros and restaurants alike are overflowing with people and everywhere there is glorious, wondrous, delicious food -- coq au vin, pate, foie gras, chateaubriand -- nirvana come to life for my hamburger-dulled palate!

Brigitte's hand, soft, graceful, just like Paris, lingers on mine as roiling, boisterous, joyous crowds swirl all about us. Their giddiness is an invisible cocktail, infectious, contagious.

Gently, tentatively, I return the warm, feathery touch with a wisp of a squeeze, as light and ephemeral as goose down. Her eyes light.

"Yes. I-I-I mean, oui. It would be fantastique if you would show me to a table." We melt into the densely crowded dance halls of my feverish imagination, myself and herself and the roiling crowds of denizens of the City of Light. Oui, indeed!

Here was my very own, portable, festival of lights in the indomitable City of Light, frozen into the wild, breathtaking beauty of one astonishingly lovely woman. She was Paris come to life, living and breathing and freezing all of my impressions of Paris into one glorious, radiant form.

Hmm

I looked at the long elegant curve of her neck, her back, her long fabulous legs. I thought about it again.

Naaah!

If Paris wants me so much as to send a soul as cool and fabulous as this, I'd better at least have a closer look. As if on cue, Brigitte turns and winks at me again.

OK! Alright! I get it, now!

Paris wins. I'm going!! O Grand and Glorious City of Lights by the Seine, here I come!

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