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Special Features: A day trip to Monet's garden... How the cafe defined itself in Parisian popular culture... A new selection of cool cafés for a warm afternoon... Do something slightly different around Oberkampf... The daily grind of the metro... Transcending the tired face of poverty on the metro... .

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The Metro...

by Isabelle Nikolic

The strong scent of too much perfume on the lady in front of me seems so aggressive just after waking up this morning.

We are all crammed in here like sardines. The closeness forces me to put up with the stench of stale alcohol on the breath of the guy near the door, as my eyes are riveted on the shoulders of the man next to me ­ shoulders covered with scaly dandruff. He's so close he prevents me from opening my book.

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Finally, I think I see an opening in the crowd, a bit further down. But as I approach, thinking, no doubt like everyone else ahead of me, that I will be able to sit down and finally get a chance to read my book -- I see the dirty homeless guy laying across three seats.

I can complain forever about the Paris metro !

Yet, after I've been away, I am always happy to see the Metro again. It's like an old friend rediscovered! The only thing that changes is the advertising posters along the walls. The endless twists and turns of the subterranean hallways always remain familiar. In fact, I sometimes I think I know Paris better from underground than from above.



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And if the Romainian gypsies, smiles full of gold teeth, weren't here to distract us a little with the joyous rythyms of their accordions ? I'm glad to be "disturbed" by them!

The cowd -- so many people in such a small space. And I am surprised by the sad eyes of a fellow-passenger: is it a seperation, or just a disagreement?


A group of kids get on. They talk loud. Showing off to prove themselves. They vy with each other to see who best knows the latest cool slang expression. I can barely understand them. But I remember that we were exactly the same when we were their age. And when adults looked at us disapprovingly, it just encouraged us to laugh louder.

Times have changed though. Back then the metro was still wooden -- the seats too -- and the big game was to hold the doors open as the train sped through the tunnel.

Watch out. My stop is next, and I must get off, pushing myself once more through the holes in this "gruyère parisien".

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